7.13.2017

Pattern test: Seamstress Erin Ultraviolet Tee


Disclosure:  I received this pattern in exchange for my honest feedback (not a public post).  All opinions are my own.

If you follow me on Instagram, you may be noticing a bit of a trend in my recent projects.  I've finally listened to past-Jennifer's Me Made May thoughts and I am thoroughly on a solids, and separates, kick!  I've also been indulging my casual, basic side more lately.  Flowy dresses, knit tees, lots of modal/rayon/tencel and linen...  So, when I saw the line drawing for Erin's new tee pattern, I knew it would fit right in!  Conveniently, I've had a length of semi-sheer navy linen in my stash just waiting for the right pattern.  Deciding this was it, I dove right in.  Side note:  HOW did I not already have a solid navy top in my wardrobe??

If you read Erin's release post for this pattern on Instagram, she calls this pattern a love letter to her belly, because it has changed since having a baby.  I think that's a beautiful reason for creating a pattern!  I can absolutely see wanting to wear the curved hem option to have a little fun with a new shape.  Having my own insecurities regarding my sides, however, I chose the straight hem woven* option. Though, I might try the curved view once I master planks!  It's less flirty than the other option, but I thought it had an effortless look about it, reminiscent of some of the sustainable brands I've been eyeing lately, who specialize in comfortable-but-pulled-together basics.
* This pattern has options for wovens and knits.

Note: In addition to two hem shapes, the pattern also comes in two cup size groups.  There's an A-C cup pattern that does not include a dart and a D-F cup pattern which does have a dart (or gathers for ease in knits).  I chose the D-F cup pattern piece so I wouldn't have to do a full bust adjustment. So convenient!  That means though that my experience with this pattern is based solely on the darted option, so please keep that in mind if you fall into the A-C cup range (please refer to the size chart - the ranges are not based on standard cup sizes) or if you simply choose the dartless piece. (Something also to keep in mind if you choose the dartless option, the front and back are the same piece, save for the neckline.)

Caveats out of the way, here's what I did:

  • cut a size 4, darted bust / 12 waist / 14 hip, based on the size chart. Note: Be sure to read all of the helpful sizing information.  There's a fair bit of ease in this pattern, so unless your sizes are drastically different, as mine were, you may not need to grade at all! (But, particularly as a tester, I always select the sizes recommended for my measurements so I can test the designed ease and style lines.)
  • added 1" to the bottom hem (for reference, I'm 5'10")
  • used self-fabric continuous bias binding instead of ready-made because I thought it would work better with my linen. This is now included in the fabric requirements!
  • re-positioned the pocket because on my shape, it was too close to my arm (but, I do think it has been moved on the final draft, so just check the placement before you attach it).  Side note: I really appreciated that Erin included 3 different pocket sizes to coordinate with different size ranges, so that the pocket looked proportional.  Since I cut a size 4 at the bust, I used the smallest pocket option.
  • for my next one, I think I need a bit of a broad shoulder adjustment because it does catch there a bit, but it doesn't affect my range of movement (The sleeve is split evenly between the front and back, so if you commonly make shoulder adjustments, you may need one with this top, particularly if you sew it in a woven.)
So, you may notice this is a bit outside of my comfort zone/what I typically sew.  But, I think it's great to branch out every now and again and I've worn this tee more than once since I finished it!  To be honest, it hides a fair bit (haha) yet it looks on-trend at the moment, so it doesn't feel sloppy. I also think it would be really fun to cuff the sleeves or lengthen it into a tunic with side slits, particularly in a nice linen.  And, of course, I plan to try out the knit option (which has more fitted sleeves) at some point.

Given it's simplicity, built in fba, thorough instructions, and modern look, I'd say this would make a good beginner pattern.  If you're concerned about being overwhelmed by the available options and what to print, Erin has added a great decision tree to help!  But, with two hem options, and the versatility of woven and knit options, it definitely has something to offer for more experienced sewists.  

Be sure to keep an eye on Erin's blog for the tester round-up. There was a really great range of testers, so you'll see it on a variety of bodies, which is always helpful! And, of course, if you do give a go, I do hope you'll share!

So tell me, how often do you sew outside of your comfort zone?

Happy sewing!

Jenny xoxo

Top: Pattern: Seamstress Erin (c/o), Fabric: Hancock // Shorts: Pattern: S1165 (review coming soon!), Fabric: Jo-Ann // Earrings: Masop // Watch: Carriage // Shoes: Sofft


I'm including this one not because of the wind-machine hair, haha, but so you can better see the ease.
Clearly not my best angle ;) but again, ease (and realness).

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