McCalls 4440 Sew Along - Day 26:16 PM
Good afternoon sewers! I apologize for posting so late in the day - I've been a bit under-the-weather today so I haven't been as productive as I would have liked. Nevertheless, I've begun sewing my dress and I hope you have too! Just a reminder, you can post any questions you have in comments and, even if it's something I haven't gone over, I'll get to it quickly!
So, yesterday, we cut out our fabric, right sides together. That was so tracing the pattern markings today would be easier. The best way to transfer the markings (dots, dart lines, etc) is to lay your fabric, pattern still pinned, onto a [right-side up] piece of transfer paper. Then, using a dressmaker's ruler as a guide and a tracing wheel, carefully trace the dart lines. For the dots, you can either use the wheel to trace an 'x' where the dot should go or you can use a washable fabric pen to draw the dots through the pattern paper. Now, unpin your pattern and flip your fabric. The marks (those done with the wheel) should now be visable. Trace those lines to create identical ones on the other half of the fabric. (If you used a pen for the dots, you'll need to line the pattern back up to draw them on the other side.)
|Using transfer paper and a tracing wheel, |
trace along the dart lines
|(lining shown for visibility) Using your new markings, |
trace the dart lines onto the other half of the fabric
|Bodice dart, pressed toward center (wrong side shown)|
|Bodice front darts completed (right side shown)|
A few notes:
- For those doing a self-lined bodice (no skirt lining), I recommend pressing your seam allowances open and trimming them to 1'4" - 1/2". If you have a serger or an overcast stitch function on your machine, you can use this on your seam allowances to inhibit fraying. For those without this option, a simple zig-zag stitch should work or you can trim your seam allowances with pinking shears (they have a zig-zag blade). On the skirt, I would recommend either finishing in the same way chosen for the bodice or using a French seam.
- For anyone doing a fully-lined dress, I recommend any of the above mentioned pressing/finishing options. French seams aren't necessary since they won't be visable and they would add unwanted bulk.
- To turn straps right-side out, sew up one end and use a bamboo skewer to push the closed end through to the other side.
- If using boning, the Featherweight option found at Hancock or Joann's works quite well for this dress. It isn't very supportive but does give structure and shape. It is also very easy to work with. Just use sharp scissors to trim 5/8" off each end and round the corners. I recommend ironing the boning, on a med-low setting to reduce the curl before attaching it to the fabric. Alternately, you can remove the boning from the casing until after you sew the casing to your bodice lining.
On Thursday, we'll work on our zippers, and hems! We're already almost done! How easy is this dress!!? Please post pictures of your progress and your completed dresses. I can't wait to see them! x