When I decided to try a shift dress, Simplicity 2584, I knew the yellow and white Lisette fabric I had in my stash would be perfect. However, as a cotton poplin with a white background, I felt it would be a bit sheer, especially in the bright summer sun of New Orleans where I intended to first wear it. So, instead of using the recommended facings, I decided to fully line the dress with a cotton/poly sheermist batiste.
However, I'd never sewn a dress with a full lining before and was not sure how to attach the invisible zipper so it would look clean from the inside and out. I perused the internet with no luck so, I decided to go for it and figure it out along the way. Here are the steps I used to attach my invisible zipper and dress lining. Hopefully, they'll save someone else a bit of frustration.
|Outer fabric shoulder seam, pressed open and faux-serged with an overcast stitch.|
|Lining with stitching lines pinned over fabric|
**Do not sew the center back seam or the side seams before attaching the zipper.**
For this particular pattern, I recommend sewing the neckline first, turning it outside and pressing, and then turning it inside to sew the armholes. This neckline is a bit difficult to turn so, leaving the arms open allows greater access while pressing.
|Zipper pinned at the 5/8" line|
Using an invisible zipper foot (this one came with my machine), baste the zipper to the garment, stitching very close to the inside of the teeth.
Pin lining (right sides together) to the outer fabric over zipper, matching raw edges.
|Stitching at 5/8" through all layers|
Stitch along the basting line on the wrong side of the outer fabric. Make sure you use the opposite side of the invisible zipper foot and stitch on the raw edge side of the zipper teeth.
|Half completed zipper|
Turn garment right side out to check zipper. If you have trouble turning the fabric, close the zipper. Reopen before proceeding.
Lay the garment out to ensure fabric is not twisted.
|Repeat on other side. Note the position of the fabric to prevent twisting.|