Invisible Zipper Tutorial - Fully Lined Dress

When I decided to try a shift dress, Simplicity 2584, I knew the yellow and white Lisette fabric I had in my stash would be perfect. However, as a cotton poplin with a white background, I felt it would be a bit sheer, especially in the bright summer sun of New Orleans where I intended to first wear it. So, instead of using the recommended facings, I decided to fully line the dress with a cotton/poly sheermist batiste.

However, I'd never sewn a dress with a full lining before and was not sure how to attach the invisible zipper so it would look clean from the inside and out. I perused the internet with no luck so, I decided to go for it and figure it out along the way.  Here are the steps I used to attach my invisible zipper and dress lining. Hopefully, they'll save someone else a bit of frustration.

Outer fabric shoulder seam, pressed open and faux-serged with an overcast stitch.

To ensure everything went together smoothly, and to allow alterations as needed, I left the full 5/8" seam allowances and overcasted each edge.

Lining with stitching lines pinned over fabric

In order to replace the facings, I began the outer fabric as normal and repeated the process using the batiste to create an identical lining. I then pinned the lining to the fabric, right sides together, over yoke and transfered the yoke facing stitching lines to the lining fabric. Proceed as you would to attach the facing. In order to have the needed flexability to attach the zipper to the fabric and lining, sew only the neckline (as instructed) and the armholes.

**Do not sew the center back seam or the side seams before attaching the zipper.**

For this particular pattern, I recommend sewing the neckline first, turning it outside and pressing, and then turning it inside to sew the armholes. This neckline is a bit difficult to turn so, leaving the arms open allows greater access while pressing.

Zipper pinned at the 5/8" line

To begin the zipper attachment, move the lining fabric out of the way and pin the zipper, right sides together, to the outer fabric. Line the teeth along the seam allowance.

Using an invisible zipper foot (this one came with my machine), baste the zipper to the garment, stitching very close to the inside of the teeth.



Pin lining (right sides together) to the outer fabric over zipper, matching raw edges.

Stitching at 5/8" through all layers

Stitch along the basting line on the wrong side of the outer fabric. Make sure you use the opposite side of the invisible zipper foot and stitch on the raw edge side of the zipper teeth.

Half completed zipper

Turn garment right side out to check zipper. If you have trouble turning the fabric, close the zipper. Reopen before proceeding.

Lay the garment out to ensure fabric is not twisted.




Repeat on other side. Note the position of the fabric to prevent twisting.

To keep fabric organized, flip the finished side onto the unfinished side, right sides together. Then, pull the unfinished lining from under the outer fabric and proceed as above.

You should now have a completed invisible zipper, enclosed between the outer fabric and lining (see introduction photo). Congratulations!!

To continue the dress, separate the lining from the outer fabric at the side seam allowances. Matching raw edges, pin the outer fabric back to the outer fabric front, right sides together, and continue on the lining. Then, sew one long seam down the side of outer fabric and lining. Press seams open and serge or overcast down the length. This way, when you turn the garment right side out, the seam allowances will be neatly tucked between the layers, offering a professional look from the inside and out.  Sew the center back seam as normal.  For the hem, I recommend cutting 1" off the finished length of the lining and then fold toward outer fabric. This will prevent the lining from peaking out. Hem the outer layer as instructed.

Now, turn the garment right side out and admire your work! If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!